Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
fuel injection
a few months ago i installed throttle body fuel injection onto the 350 in my 79 camaro. i have now finished working out the bugs in the fuel injection i have burnt countless custom chips with a few little tweaks here and there. the results of my labor is 22 mpg,340hp, and right at 400ftlb of torque. thats a whopping 165 hp and 130ftlb gain over the stock 350 that came in the 79 z28's! If anyone has any questions about fuel injection on their camaro or any other chevrolet i will be glad to help!
ps. the pic of the fuel injection was taken on the first day i installed it in the car sense then i have cleaned the wiring up and repainted the engine bay.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Engine Detailing and Restoration
Engine Restoration
Define the scope of the project
Step 1 in your drivetrain restoration effort is to make sure everything is functional, structurally sound and in good condition. If your engine smokes, has a bazillion miles on it, is disassembled or otherwise doesn't work, you'll need to rebuild it.
If the transmission isn't shifting correctly or hasn't made a car go down the road in a couple years, you might need to rebuild it as well. In fact, if you start pulling major components (engine) out of the car you might want to have the transmission rebuilt at this time just so it's nice and fresh. It's a major PITA to have a nice car and have an old finicky item constantly prevent you from having fun with it. This is called being penny-wise but pound foolish. Also, it'll help you avoid the "You can pay me now - or pay me later" syndrome. However, you need to be very careful of the "slipery slope" - which is to unnecessarily expand the scope of your project by tearing everything apart and rebuilding it when all you really wanted to do was clean something up. You can also fall into the trap of replacing everything (alternator, starter, waterpump, coil, radiator....) so it's new, rather than simply cleaning it up and reusing it.
Cleaning everything up
Step 2 - Assuming these items are structurally sound, you can simply clean them up. Here's where the amount of effort expended and attention to detail pays off. If you do a Quick cleaning job - Sometimes called a spray-can restoration - it'll look like it. While it's not necessary to remove the engine & trans, it'll give you the best results.
Pulling engine: You can pull the engine & trans together, or disconnect the transmission from the engine and pull the engine by itself, then remove the transmission from under the car. Both methods have pros/cons.
Generally when components are rebuilt they come back nice & clean. Paint them. If you're not going to rebuild the engine or trans, degrease them and paint them. This work is called "detailing". Some folks go to great lengths to detail their cars and make them spotless. That's not really necessary unless you're really interested in that level of detail or if you will show your car. The majority of owners won't have a heart-attack if they drive through a puddle. It's easy to clean the engine bay when everything is removed. You can also inspect and replace the motor mounts if necessary. The best thing you can do is make & keep everything nice, clean & detailed. The level of detail depends on how you intend on using the car. Some folks wipe dust off immediately and are afraid to char the paint on thier exhaust manifolds. Some folks can live with degreasing their engine every once in a while.
Define the scope of the project
Step 1 in your drivetrain restoration effort is to make sure everything is functional, structurally sound and in good condition. If your engine smokes, has a bazillion miles on it, is disassembled or otherwise doesn't work, you'll need to rebuild it.
If the transmission isn't shifting correctly or hasn't made a car go down the road in a couple years, you might need to rebuild it as well. In fact, if you start pulling major components (engine) out of the car you might want to have the transmission rebuilt at this time just so it's nice and fresh. It's a major PITA to have a nice car and have an old finicky item constantly prevent you from having fun with it. This is called being penny-wise but pound foolish. Also, it'll help you avoid the "You can pay me now - or pay me later" syndrome. However, you need to be very careful of the "slipery slope" - which is to unnecessarily expand the scope of your project by tearing everything apart and rebuilding it when all you really wanted to do was clean something up. You can also fall into the trap of replacing everything (alternator, starter, waterpump, coil, radiator....) so it's new, rather than simply cleaning it up and reusing it.
Cleaning everything up
Step 2 - Assuming these items are structurally sound, you can simply clean them up. Here's where the amount of effort expended and attention to detail pays off. If you do a Quick cleaning job - Sometimes called a spray-can restoration - it'll look like it. While it's not necessary to remove the engine & trans, it'll give you the best results.
Pulling engine: You can pull the engine & trans together, or disconnect the transmission from the engine and pull the engine by itself, then remove the transmission from under the car. Both methods have pros/cons.
Generally when components are rebuilt they come back nice & clean. Paint them. If you're not going to rebuild the engine or trans, degrease them and paint them. This work is called "detailing". Some folks go to great lengths to detail their cars and make them spotless. That's not really necessary unless you're really interested in that level of detail or if you will show your car. The majority of owners won't have a heart-attack if they drive through a puddle. It's easy to clean the engine bay when everything is removed. You can also inspect and replace the motor mounts if necessary. The best thing you can do is make & keep everything nice, clean & detailed. The level of detail depends on how you intend on using the car. Some folks wipe dust off immediately and are afraid to char the paint on thier exhaust manifolds. Some folks can live with degreasing their engine every once in a while.
70-81 camaro rear axle decoding
Second Generation Camaro
Rear Axle Information
Rear Axle Information
The 1970 rear end differs from the 1971-1981 rear end. In 1970 the rear end was built in both 10 and 12 bolt versions. In 1971, GM instituted a standardized "corporate" rear axle. This rear end was available in a 10 bolt version only. The 1970 12 bolt version will bolt into any second generation Camaro and quite often is done so in high power applications.
Description
Three piece housing includes integral cast iron differential carrier and housing with pressed in and welded steel tubes.
Semi-floating forged and heat-treated axle shafts. Wheel drive flange is forged integral with the axle. Axles are the same length for both sides.
Differential carrier contains hypoid overhung pinion and ring gear. Drive pinion supported by two taper roller bearings.
Rear Suspension - Salisbury rear axle with multiple leaf springs.
Staggered shocks, right side shock is located in front of axle tube and the left shock is located behind the axle tube. This controls wheel hop.
Leaf Springs - All leaf springs were 5-leaf design, 56" long, 2.5" wide.
See yearly info for specific specifications.
Physical Dimensions
1970 10 bolt 1970 12 bolt Corporate
Bolt Diameter 3/8" 3/8" 7/16LH
Ring Gear Dia 8.20" 8.875" 8.50"
Pinion Dia. 1.438" 1.625" 1.625"
Axle Splines 28 30 28
The following dimensions are consistant across all 3 style rear ends.
Axle tube flange to axle tube flange: 55.25"
Between centerlines of spring seats: 45 3/8"
Axle shaft length: 30 5/32"
Rear Axle Identification & Decoding
Identify the gear ratio, the build date, the plant where it was assembled the work shift when it was assembled, and positraction source - if equipped. This number is stamped on the forward facing passenger side axle tube (on 2nd generation) and forward facing drivers side axle tube (on 3rd gen) camaros. It'll usually be about 3 inches away from the carrier housing (center section of rear end housing).
1971 Z28 rear axle code
This stamp can be difficult to locate on an 30+ year old axle due to layers of paint, undercoating, grease, and dirt. It may be necessary to partially strip the forward face of the passenger side axle over the middle third of the length in order to locate and discern the characters. A razor blade and/or putty knife, fine wire brush, and cleaning solution may be needed tools in this search.
1970 Axle code example: COZ 01 01 G E
(COZ = Ratio, 01 = Month, 01 = Day of month, G = Plant, E = positraction source)
1971+ Rear Axle Code example: CB G 112 1 E
(CB = Ratio, G = Plant, 112 = 112th day of year, 1 = shift, E = Positraction Source)
Assembly Plant Codes
Plant Code Plant Code
Buick B Warren, MI W
Buffalo C Oldsmobile O
Cadillac D Pontiac P
Detriot Gear & Axle G Pontiac/Canada M
GM of Canada K
Shift: D or 1 = Day shift | N or 2 = Night shift
Positraction Source/Code:
- = No positraction G = Chevrolet G&A Positraction Carrier
D = Dana Positraction Differential O = Oldsmobile Positraction Carrier
E = Eaton Positraction Differential W = Warren/Warner Motive
Positraction Casting Numbers
Due to the possible confusion with gear ratio descriptions... a HIGHER number is a LOWER gear.
In the below examples, 2.73:1 & down = 2.41, 2.56, etc... which is actually a HIGHER gear ratio.
8.2" 10 bolt 8.5" "Corporate" 12 bolt
Casting # Series Gearing
ED32118 2 2.73:1 & down
EDB30116 3 3.08:1 & up
Casting # Series Gearing
410408N 3 2.73:1 & up
410409N 2 2.56:1 & down
Casting # Series Gearing
ED32088 2 2.73:1 & down
30140PM1 3 3.08:1 to 3.73:1
EDB30174 4 3.90:1 & up
Rear Axle Information
Rear Axle Information
The 1970 rear end differs from the 1971-1981 rear end. In 1970 the rear end was built in both 10 and 12 bolt versions. In 1971, GM instituted a standardized "corporate" rear axle. This rear end was available in a 10 bolt version only. The 1970 12 bolt version will bolt into any second generation Camaro and quite often is done so in high power applications.
Description
Three piece housing includes integral cast iron differential carrier and housing with pressed in and welded steel tubes.
Semi-floating forged and heat-treated axle shafts. Wheel drive flange is forged integral with the axle. Axles are the same length for both sides.
Differential carrier contains hypoid overhung pinion and ring gear. Drive pinion supported by two taper roller bearings.
Rear Suspension - Salisbury rear axle with multiple leaf springs.
Staggered shocks, right side shock is located in front of axle tube and the left shock is located behind the axle tube. This controls wheel hop.
Leaf Springs - All leaf springs were 5-leaf design, 56" long, 2.5" wide.
See yearly info for specific specifications.
Physical Dimensions
1970 10 bolt 1970 12 bolt Corporate
Bolt Diameter 3/8" 3/8" 7/16LH
Ring Gear Dia 8.20" 8.875" 8.50"
Pinion Dia. 1.438" 1.625" 1.625"
Axle Splines 28 30 28
The following dimensions are consistant across all 3 style rear ends.
Axle tube flange to axle tube flange: 55.25"
Between centerlines of spring seats: 45 3/8"
Axle shaft length: 30 5/32"
Rear Axle Identification & Decoding
Identify the gear ratio, the build date, the plant where it was assembled the work shift when it was assembled, and positraction source - if equipped. This number is stamped on the forward facing passenger side axle tube (on 2nd generation) and forward facing drivers side axle tube (on 3rd gen) camaros. It'll usually be about 3 inches away from the carrier housing (center section of rear end housing).
1971 Z28 rear axle code
This stamp can be difficult to locate on an 30+ year old axle due to layers of paint, undercoating, grease, and dirt. It may be necessary to partially strip the forward face of the passenger side axle over the middle third of the length in order to locate and discern the characters. A razor blade and/or putty knife, fine wire brush, and cleaning solution may be needed tools in this search.
1970 Axle code example: COZ 01 01 G E
(COZ = Ratio, 01 = Month, 01 = Day of month, G = Plant, E = positraction source)
1971+ Rear Axle Code example: CB G 112 1 E
(CB = Ratio, G = Plant, 112 = 112th day of year, 1 = shift, E = Positraction Source)
Assembly Plant Codes
Plant Code Plant Code
Buick B Warren, MI W
Buffalo C Oldsmobile O
Cadillac D Pontiac P
Detriot Gear & Axle G Pontiac/Canada M
GM of Canada K
Shift: D or 1 = Day shift | N or 2 = Night shift
Positraction Source/Code:
- = No positraction G = Chevrolet G&A Positraction Carrier
D = Dana Positraction Differential O = Oldsmobile Positraction Carrier
E = Eaton Positraction Differential W = Warren/Warner Motive
Positraction Casting Numbers
Due to the possible confusion with gear ratio descriptions... a HIGHER number is a LOWER gear.
In the below examples, 2.73:1 & down = 2.41, 2.56, etc... which is actually a HIGHER gear ratio.
8.2" 10 bolt 8.5" "Corporate" 12 bolt
Casting # Series Gearing
ED32118 2 2.73:1 & down
EDB30116 3 3.08:1 & up
Casting # Series Gearing
410408N 3 2.73:1 & up
410409N 2 2.56:1 & down
Casting # Series Gearing
ED32088 2 2.73:1 & down
30140PM1 3 3.08:1 to 3.73:1
EDB30174 4 3.90:1 & up
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